[Aaron]

I did a full search on the brass abrasions on the Upper and now know that it's normal on the 556.

Will those abrasions eventually rust?
Will they eventually get worse than what's on this photo?

The abrasions are from shooting a total of about 15 rounds out of brand-new rifle. I'm thinking about using clear helicopter tape that I've read about.

I would have thought SIG would have fixed this problem by now. I've read some posts on here where some have no marks at all. SN: JS022XXX.

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[1Love]

It will look like this

and you will learn to welcome them as I did.

 

[Aaron]

Ahhh! :shock:

Any rust issues?

I couldn't believe how far this thing threw brass. Amazing. I suppose that's why the marks are there.

 

[lucky]

No it wont rust. :wink:

assuming you dont leave your sig in a dark damp closet with the swamp thing.

 

[XTrooper]

assuming you dont leave your sig in a dark damp closet with the swamp thing.

LOL Now that's funny!

 

[shadews]

Ahhh! :shock:

Any rust issues?

I couldn't believe how far this thing threw brass. Amazing. I suppose that's why the marks are there.

OMG my 556 Pistol threw brass forward and right at about a 45 degree angle for at least 15 feet. I was amazed. The muzzle blast on it is insane as well.

 

[bremo76]

isn't the upper an aluminium metal or aluminium composite?? If so, it shouldn't rust right?

 

[Aaron]

isn't the upper an aluminium metal or aluminium composite?? If so, it shouldn't rust right?

Not sure. Makes sense for it to be aluminium. Anyone on here know for sure?

I just touched up the "brass kisses" with that special black marker made for such marks. Worked really well. Matches very close and you can't tell from a distance, you have to look really close.

I ordered some of that "helicopter tape" to put on the general area where abrasions occur. It will go over the touched-up paint and will prevent any futher "kisses".

I guess my 556 will no longer have character!

 

[moses]

Upper receiver is steel. As long as the brass residue is left on the receiver I do not think that area will rust. But I would keep it oiled as usual.

 

[yzergod]

Seen a few people stick on a small patch of velcro or 3M grip tape there to "catch" the brass. Heard of others using a Sharpie to touch up the area. Others use the "chicks dig scars - leave it" mindset. The only way to avoid it though is to not shoot it.

 

[owenb01]

Has anybody who has done the velcro thing or something like it checked their brass to see if the case mouth is less mangled? I want to start reloading but I've heard the brass out of these can only be reloaded a time or two because the mouth dents so badly when it smacks the receiver.

 

[Longrifle]

The first thing I checked after using velcro is the dents. Sorry to say, but I didn't see any difference. Same ol' dings on the body. I've never really noticed the mouth deformity, but now that you've mentioned it only one of the ten empty shells I saved had the case mouth deformed.

 

[owenb01]

The first thing I checked after using velcro is the dents. Sorry to say, but I didn't see any difference. Same ol' dings on the body. I've never really noticed the mouth deformity, but now that you've mentioned it only one of the ten empty shells I saved had the case mouth deformed.

Interesting, I wonder if barrel length has anything to do with it. My pistol is 10 inches (heheh) and it left all of the wolf steel case mouths shaped kinda like a capital D (as I heard someone else describe it--accurate description though). I didn't check any of the LC brass on the Black Hills that I've put through it, but I will try to shoot some tomorrow and report back.

 

[Spc-swainster PA]

I can tell you it will rust if you leave your baby in a soft case and if you live anywhere its humid. Its been raining for the past few weeks and need less to say the air has become damp. I have put a few thousand rounds through my sig and the brass scaring is obvious to say the least. Its not even the yellow on black it has completely taken the factory finish off in that one inch area. Because the finish is gone and its the bare metal, moisture got to it. I noticed little red spots in that little area as well as the rear takedown pin and the edges of the selector levers. I fixed that with some oil and have placed a dehumidifier in my closet. But if you use a hard case then you shouldn't worry if you throw some of those little anti moisture packets in there.

 

[Buck Rogers]

Well if it rusts at that one spot, just shoot it. The ejecting brass will take off paint, it should take off rust too right? Just keep shooting it and the rust should stay to a minimum.

 

[Nittany Lion]

Its been raining for the past few weeks and need less to say the air has become damp.

What part of PA are you in?
I'm in a drought!

 

[johnw91498]

isn't the upper an aluminium metal or aluminium composite?? If so, it shouldn't rust right?

Not sure. Makes sense for it to be aluminium. Anyone on here know for sure?

I just touched up the "brass kisses" with that special black marker made for such marks. Worked really well. Matches very close and you can't tell from a distance, you have to look really close.

I ordered some of that "helicopter tape" to put on the general area where abrasions occur. It will go over the touched-up paint and will prevent any futher "kisses".

I guess my 556 will no longer have character!

Can you tell me what is the name of the black marker you use?

Thanks

 

[Longrifle]

Try this:

http://www.topgunsupply.com/birchwood-c ... black.html

I used it to cover up the marks and put velcro on it after it dried.

 

[Seabee]

Leave the marks there. I've beat the crap out of my 556. Dings and scratches are proof that you are training with and using a weapon. I guess the thing is, if you want it to look pretty forever, leave it in the closet. I might be the wrong guy to give advice though.....I just bought three cans of Krylon for my 556.

 

[johnw91498]

Try this:

http://www.topgunsupply.com/birchwood-c ... black.html

I used it to cover up the marks and put velcro on it after it dried.

thanks