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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to the range a few weeks ago, and I noticed 2 things:

  • 1. While shooting, I would squeeze and then hold the trigger. I would slowly let it out, but not past the point where I could feel something engage in the trigger mechanism. I wouldn't let the trigger out very far, I couldn't imagine it was more then a few millimeters, and then if I squeezed it again, it would fire. I suppose I shouldn't be shocked, after all it is a semi-automatic rifle, right? I was surprised at how you could shoot the SIG with such little trigger travel if you really wanted to - assuming you had already a shot off. Maybe that is correct, as intended operation, it's just something that I noticed while shooting that I can't recall ever experiencing before on any other rifle (not sure I've tried it either).

    2. I've decided I hate the SIG red dot that came with it. I instinctivly want to line the dot up with the front sight post and shoot with a single eye, and maybe because of that, I can't seem to ever get a consistent sight picture. I also have a heard time finding a place that feels like a natural cheek weld. It then struck me that this may be due to the fact that I am using to what amounts to a $30 optic on a $1900 rifle...but the not finding a natural cheek weld would not be solved with a better optic, right?
 

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Trigger reset

Trigger reset is shorter than full travel on most/all semi automatics, so this is normal. I've never measured how far it is, but since I am building a match trigger for the 556, I'll measure it once I get my first prototypes done and start evaluation.

As to red dot, I think you are stuck with it. The radius of the red dot sight is greater than the height of the rear aperture, so for the sight line to remain parallel to the iron sights, the red dot will necessarily be slightly higher than the front sight post. Options are to remove the front post, or figure out how to raise the post, so it coincides with the dot, though this would forever render the iron sights way out of line ... or simply get used to it. I don't think any other red dot would improve your concern.

Art
 

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SIG Red Dot

You're correct the SIG red dot is a piece of junk. I'd replace it with an Aimpoint ML 3 or an EOtech 511.
 

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easy-v said:
I went to the range a few weeks ago, and I noticed 2 things:

  • 1. While shooting, I would squeeze and then hold the trigger. I would slowly let it out, but not past the point where I could feel something engage in the trigger mechanism. I wouldn't let the trigger out very far, I couldn't imagine it was more then a few millimeters, and then if I squeezed it again, it would fire. I suppose I shouldn't be shocked, after all it is a semi-automatic rifle, right? I was surprised at how you could shoot the SIG with such little trigger travel if you really wanted to - assuming you had already a shot off. Maybe that is correct, as intended operation, it's just something that I noticed while shooting that I can't recall ever experiencing before on any other rifle (not sure I've tried it either).]


  • ...you're fine...as long as the gun doesn't fire more than one round with each pull of the trigger...in a semi...the trigger needs to reset...go fowards a little...before you can fire another shot...

    ...it's always a good idea to do a function check before and after you fire your weapon...as per your owners manual...



    easy-v said:
    2. I've decided I hate the SIG red dot that came with it. I instinctivly want to line the dot up with the front sight post and shoot with a single eye, and maybe because of that, I can't seem to ever get a consistent sight picture. I also have a heard time finding a place that feels like a natural cheek weld. It then struck me that this may be due to the fact that I am using to what amounts to a $30 optic on a $1900 rifle...but the not finding a natural cheek weld would not be solved with a better optic, right?
...your irons are used independantly from your optic...you place "only" the dot on your target...you totally ignore the front sight !!! ...

...when you co-wittness your reflex or holographic sight with your irons....you are "forcing" the dot to be on the same sighting plane as the target...and the front and rear sight...this is not the correct way to use the optic...you should not co-witness...ever ! you use either the iron sights or the optic...not both...

...there is some information in this tread...and there are many others in the optics section...you should read them to get a better idea how to properly use a red dot sight...

... http://www.sigarms556.com/viewtopic.php?t=7601
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info.

I guess I have to retrain myself on how I shoot, having always used irons.
 

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its a two stage trigger.....whats the problem...its functioning EXACTLY how its supposed to....

and yes the sig sight is junk...anyone want to buy mine brand new? :roll:
 

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The trigger itself is only single stage. The 'second stage' is the result of the engagement of the pressure point screw, which is not technically a part of the trigger assembly itself.
 

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556OPER8R said:
its a two stage trigger.....whats the problem...its functioning EXACTLY how its supposed to....:
...just for the record...the Sig 55x...including the Sig 556...have single stage triggers...

...there is the pre-travel..or the "slack"...the travel stage...in which the engagement surfaces actually "drag" over each other...and the over-travel...the rearwards motion of the trigger after the hammer breaks contact with the sear and starts to fall...

...with the 55x / 556...the shooter precieves an additional resistance as he moves the trigger reawards due to the pressure point assembly making contact with the rear of the trigger...which gives the shooter the "perception" of a two stage trigger...however...the pressure point assembly is "independant" of the trigger mechanism...and when removed...the shooter no longer will precieve the trigger as a two stage trigger...

...two stage triggers require the shooter to apply additional force during the "trigger travel" stage as it nears the break point...this is usually accomplished with the use of a spring and some mechanical means within the trigger mechanism...or a change in the leverage ratio prior to the trigger's breaking point or a combination of both...
 

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Pressure point assembly

Ullie, you say when the pressure point assembly is removed the trigger will feel like a normal single trigger. can this be done with out affecting safety? If so, then whats the best method?
 

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Re: Pressure point assembly

kevin7mmstw said:
Ullie, you say when the pressure point assembly is removed the trigger will feel like a normal single trigger. can this be done with out affecting safety? If so, then whats the best method?
......the only purpose of the "pressure point screw" is to require the user to apply additional force to the trigger within the last 1/2 to 1 mm of it's reaward movement prior to the sear disengaging from the hammer...allowing the hammer to fall.......if properly adjusted...it is not a "trigger stop" and is not mechanically related to the fire control group...

...because the operator needs to "deliberately and consciencely" apply additional force upon the trigger to fire the weapon due to the force of the pressure point screw acting upon the rear of the trigger surface when making contact with the trigger...it reduces the probability of an accidental or unintentional discharge...

...i strongly suggest that you maintain the limits of adjustment as recomended and set by the factory...removing the pressure point assembly or defeating or modyfing the design parameters of the pressure point assembly "may" place you and possibly others at risk and also put you in legal jeopardy should you have an event that results in the destruction of property... personal injury or death...
 
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