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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took the 556 SBR out today to get the red dot and irons both sighted in. Got it where I wanted it, sights hitting, dot hitting. Hell, I was hitting the 300 yard torso with the red dot. I adjusted the rear drum all the way to the left as far as it will go. Can this be right?

My buddy likes to bump fire, and wanted to see if the sig would hold up. I said sure. He ran 2 mags through it, and a couple more regular. The front sight post unscrewed way up.

I got home and checked the little allan key that goes across it, and it seemed tight. So I used some plumbers tape on the threads to hold it secure. I just lined it up with the rear and the dot at home.

I swapped the post it had on there with the smaller one that came with the sights in the beginning.

And the front sight was installed by a gunsmith.
Something appears to be crooked with them too. Can anyone tell what's going on with it? I don't think it's life ending, but it's definately a little off somehow.






 

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Slippery Pete said:
I adjusted the rear drum all the way to the left as far as it will go. Can this be right?
...you shouldn't have to max out your windage travel to zero...try to compensate with the front sight first...your 556 may be shooting too far to the right...

Slippery Pete said:
The front sight post unscrewed way up.

I got home and checked the little allan key that goes across it, and it seemed tight. So I used some plumbers tape on the threads to hold it secure. I just lined it up with the rear and the dot at home.

I swapped the post it had on there with the smaller one that came with the sights in the beginning.
...your front sight post does look a little canted in the pictures...and "it should not back out"...from what you posted...you need to have the entire front sight replaced by Aurora...or am i missing something here ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update

Derek at Aurora sent me a new front site, and I sent the whole thing to Sig to get them to look at it. Of course, they won't screw with aftermarket stuff, and their "conclusion" was the sight was out of spec.

They DID however tell me the rail was level, and the gas block was level. So what the hell is what I say. The newer sight seems straighter, but I'm not 100%. I think something is still a little off.

This is becoming a bear of a problem. Any thoughts or insight would be greatly appreciated.









 

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Slippery Pete said:
They DID however tell me the rail was level, and the gas block was level. So what the hell is what I say. The newer sight seems straighter, but I'm not 100%. I think something is still a little off.

This is becoming a bear of a problem. Any thoughts or insight would be greatly appreciated.
...assuming your rail and gas block are "half ass" level...that's good enoung BTW...

...your front sight post looks fine...

...do this...take everything off the rifle except the Aurora sights...making sure the diopter is on nice and tight...don't go crazy though...

...mechanically zero the rear diopter...the front sight should be at the centerpoint...set up a target at 25 yards...use the apperature marked #2...fire POA=POI...adjust so you print 1 1/4 inch low...move out to 50 yards...adjust for POI=POA...if you come close to maxing out your windage...that is...moving the rear sight more than ~2/3 or ~ 60 % of its travel from its mechanical zero point...then the issue is "probably" with your rifle...you rifle is shooting too far to the right...assuming you are moving the rear sight to the left to compensate...and needs to go back to Sig...

...mechanically zero the optic by counting the clicks and dividing by 2...do this for both elevation and windage...and see how far you need to adjust for windage...start at 25 yards and move out to 50 yards using the same proceedure...DO NOT use your irons to help zero your optic...start with the optic mechanically zeroed and zero it independantly of the irons...if you need to "almost" max out the windage...then it is your rifle...make note of the total number of clicks...both in elevation and windage...so that you can determine how far you needed to adjust for windage to zero the optic...writing this down is a good idea BTW...

...ie...total number of clicks for both W&E from one end to the other end of the run...and how many clicks you needed in windage travel to zero...from the "centerpoint"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Ullie

This gives me a game plan which is what I needed.

I'm a little worried because I remember sighting in with the irons first, then putting the dot on there, but neither started at factory zero unless the Aurora diopter came that way. The red dot came off a handgun so no telling where it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's a pic with the diopter mechanically zeroed, and the red dot off. I'm done with that thing. Someday will get a micro.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just an update. I took the Sig out today to get the irons right.

I was hitting a sheet of paper at 100 yards everytime. They are good to go.

Thanks for the help Ullie.
 

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aurora sights

If you ever want to get rid of those pesky aurora sights, I will take them off your hands... :D
 
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