Thanks for posting, it really helps me a lot because I'm new in auto pistol and searchiing how to make this good for me.
Lubrication of a Semi Auto Pistol
...a pistol is a machine...fueled by the energy released by the cartrage and driven by the energy stored in the springs...as with all machines...pistols require to be properly lubricated to function optimally...reduce wear and enhance reliability...
...before firing a new pistol ...i would field strip her...clean out "all" of the packing oils or grease...lubricate and assemble her and run the slide back and forth a couple of hundred times without the magazine inserted...no need to pull the trigger...this will burnish the rails a little and smooth out some of the main contact areas such as the inner surfaces of the slide into which the barrel hoods mates during lockup...and generally loosen her up a hair...
...not all pistol designs are the same but almost all are practically similiar...so to give some of you a "general" sense of how to properly lubricate a pistol...i have written out these "general" guidelines...i hope these guidelines are useful to you...
...starting with the slide...you should generously lubricate the rails...but save that for last...you can use a q-tip to apply a light film of lubricant to the inside surfaces in the front of the slide through which the barrel and recoil spring guide protrude...ie...the barrel hole and guide rod hole...smear a small amount lubricant on the first 1 1/4 inches of the inside top surface of the slide in front of the ejection port...and apply a small amount of lubricant onto both sides of the inside of slide for the first 1/2 inch fowards of the ejection port...again..a q-tip works well...smear a very light coating of lubricant on the hammer rail...add a small drop to the extractor channel while standing the slide on end and forcing the extractor to open a little...it will creep in......press in the firing pin block/safty and add a small drop to the opening...work it in...then hold the firing pin block in while standing the frame "bore end" down and apply a small drop onto the firing pin channel as you press in the firing pin...work it in a little while pressing in the firing pin block allowing you to move the firing pin in and out...wipe off any excess lubricant from the extractor and firing pin channel...or better yet you can use canned air and blow out the excess lubricant and then wipe the area down...
..the barrel and guide rod and spring...lightly lubricate the first ~ 2 1/2 inches of the exterior of the barrel...generously apply lubricant for the first inch or so...then a light film on the barrel hood / locking block...and lightly lubricate the lugs beneath the barrel's chamber...lightly lubricate the recoil spring and guide...
...on the frame...generously lubricate the rails...but again save this for last...apply a light coating of lubricant on the locking insert that contacts the barrel lugs...very lightly lubricate all operating controls such as the slide catch...decocker if present...mag catch...takedown lever/slide release...also very lightly lubricate the hammer and trigger pins...the parts surrounding the hammer and sear...1 drop on the hammer and sear contact points...a light surface coating on the trigger bar and disconnector contact points...and a very light coating on the mainspring and related parts...you can spread the lubricant using compressed air and then blow out any excess with compressed or canned air...then wipe off any excess...these parts require very little lubrication...only a slight surface film...very light lubrication means that when you run your finger across the surface...you will pick up little or no oil...the part will look "slightly" wet though...light lubrication means that your finger will pick up a small amount of oil and the part will appear wet...generous lubrication means that the part is wet and the lubricant is just below the point of flowing...but when the part is held vertically...the lubricant will not run...your pistol should never be lubricated to the point that the lubricant will flow or drip from it...
...you shouldn't lubricate your magazines...not needed...but to protect them from corrosion...you should...from time to time wipe down the magazine bodies...inside and out...and any other metalic parts including the springs with a lubricant that has excellent corrosion inhibiting properties...let them sit a while to penetrate and creep...and then wipe dry...likewise...you should wipe down all metalic parts of your pistol...especially after cleaning...with a lubricant that has excellent corrosion inhibiting properties...and then wipe off any excess so that the surfaces remain protected...
...not all pistols require the same degree of lubrication...some require more...others less...if in doubt... a little less is usually better...a little common sense will go a long way here...if going to the range with the intent of firing several hundred rounds...run her wet ...and reapply some lubricant from time to time on high wear / load areas such as the rails...locking areas and barrel face where you'll eventually see a smilie and the recoil guide and spring and so forth...if it's shinny...it needs oil....
...something to keep in mind is that lubricants "may" contaminate ammunition and render primers inert...especially lubricants that contain penetrating solvents... you should lubricate any defensive carry weapon sparingly...even after you've cleaned and "lightly" lubricated your pistol and wiped off any excess...the remaining lubricant may creep...you should check your pistol for migrating lubricant in any areas that may contact the ammunition...if you intend to carry your weapon...less lubricant is better...most "clean" pistols will easily run through several magazines in an "almost" dry state...and even if the pistol appears dry...most lubricants such as Breakfree CLP and Weapon Shield CLP will leave behind a surface film with good lubricating properties...
...before firing a new pistol ...i would field strip her...clean out "all" of the packing oils or grease...lubricate and assemble her and run the slide back and forth a couple of hundred times without the magazine inserted...no need to pull the trigger...this will burnish the rails a little and smooth out some of the main contact areas such as the inner surfaces of the slide into which the barrel hoods mates during lockup...and generally loosen her up a hair...
...not all pistol designs are the same but almost all are practically similiar...so to give some of you a "general" sense of how to properly lubricate a pistol...i have written out these "general" guidelines...i hope these guidelines are useful to you...
...starting with the slide...you should generously lubricate the rails...but save that for last...you can use a q-tip to apply a light film of lubricant to the inside surfaces in the front of the slide through which the barrel and recoil spring guide protrude...ie...the barrel hole and guide rod hole...smear a small amount lubricant on the first 1 1/4 inches of the inside top surface of the slide in front of the ejection port...and apply a small amount of lubricant onto both sides of the inside of slide for the first 1/2 inch fowards of the ejection port...again..a q-tip works well...smear a very light coating of lubricant on the hammer rail...add a small drop to the extractor channel while standing the slide on end and forcing the extractor to open a little...it will creep in......press in the firing pin block/safty and add a small drop to the opening...work it in...then hold the firing pin block in while standing the frame "bore end" down and apply a small drop onto the firing pin channel as you press in the firing pin...work it in a little while pressing in the firing pin block allowing you to move the firing pin in and out...wipe off any excess lubricant from the extractor and firing pin channel...or better yet you can use canned air and blow out the excess lubricant and then wipe the area down...
..the barrel and guide rod and spring...lightly lubricate the first ~ 2 1/2 inches of the exterior of the barrel...generously apply lubricant for the first inch or so...then a light film on the barrel hood / locking block...and lightly lubricate the lugs beneath the barrel's chamber...lightly lubricate the recoil spring and guide...
...on the frame...generously lubricate the rails...but again save this for last...apply a light coating of lubricant on the locking insert that contacts the barrel lugs...very lightly lubricate all operating controls such as the slide catch...decocker if present...mag catch...takedown lever/slide release...also very lightly lubricate the hammer and trigger pins...the parts surrounding the hammer and sear...1 drop on the hammer and sear contact points...a light surface coating on the trigger bar and disconnector contact points...and a very light coating on the mainspring and related parts...you can spread the lubricant using compressed air and then blow out any excess with compressed or canned air...then wipe off any excess...these parts require very little lubrication...only a slight surface film...very light lubrication means that when you run your finger across the surface...you will pick up little or no oil...the part will look "slightly" wet though...light lubrication means that your finger will pick up a small amount of oil and the part will appear wet...generous lubrication means that the part is wet and the lubricant is just below the point of flowing...but when the part is held vertically...the lubricant will not run...your pistol should never be lubricated to the point that the lubricant will flow or drip from it...
...you shouldn't lubricate your magazines...not needed...but to protect them from corrosion...you should...from time to time wipe down the magazine bodies...inside and out...and any other metalic parts including the springs with a lubricant that has excellent corrosion inhibiting properties...let them sit a while to penetrate and creep...and then wipe dry...likewise...you should wipe down all metalic parts of your pistol...especially after cleaning...with a lubricant that has excellent corrosion inhibiting properties...and then wipe off any excess so that the surfaces remain protected...
...not all pistols require the same degree of lubrication...some require more...others less...if in doubt... a little less is usually better...a little common sense will go a long way here...if going to the range with the intent of firing several hundred rounds...run her wet ...and reapply some lubricant from time to time on high wear / load areas such as the rails...locking areas and barrel face where you'll eventually see a smilie and the recoil guide and spring and so forth...if it's shinny...it needs oil....
...something to keep in mind is that lubricants "may" contaminate ammunition and render primers inert...especially lubricants that contain penetrating solvents... you should lubricate any defensive carry weapon sparingly...even after you've cleaned and "lightly" lubricated your pistol and wiped off any excess...the remaining lubricant may creep...you should check your pistol for migrating lubricant in any areas that may contact the ammunition...if you intend to carry your weapon...less lubricant is better...most "clean" pistols will easily run through several magazines in an "almost" dry state...and even if the pistol appears dry...most lubricants such as Breakfree CLP and Weapon Shield CLP will leave behind a surface film with good lubricating properties...
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Nice shared post sir, It really helpful and informative one's,
I'm also new engaging auto pistol but learning more now...
_____________
swiss army knives is a dangerous weapon, even to the possessor, if he knows not how to use it discreetly.
pR0feSor xXx
I'm also new engaging auto pistol but learning more now...
_____________
swiss army knives is a dangerous weapon, even to the possessor, if he knows not how to use it discreetly.
pR0feSor xXx
Hm. I lube the Glock at 5 places: each of the frame lugs that engage the slide rails, and on the tail of the striker, and a dab on the front edge of the barrel lug.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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