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Looking to pick up 556 Pistol/PICKED UP BUILD

18K views 167 replies 10 participants last post by  xpotrpr 
#1 ·
Hello all,

New here, big Sig Fanboy, been scouring the forum for info over the years and finally decided to join, and hopefully be a soon to be Sig 556 owner. My dream gun since... ever.

Anyways, here's the 556 in question.

Its a TP serial #/build. 0011xx to be exact.

From my research that would be an early release right?.. possibly 2008-2009? Receiver has the rear takedown pin and front screw type takedown pin. Also has the unequal ribs near the magwell, and uses a buffer tube style rear, Would this be considered a Gen2?

I've been back and forth, gathering info to make sure this is the one I want. Just trying to see what its history is. Previous owner swapped a Samson rail and a Phase 5 buffer tube on it. I'm assuming it had a fishgill forend prior.. and the factory plastic buffer tube. I would be the 3rd owner. 1st did the swaps and most use. 2nd had it for a bit and is now trying to get out of it. I believe its a good deal, enough so to do a FFL transfer for it, vs staying local. It does have some wear on it. Mostly the upper. The usual wear around the ejection port.

@Bosley , I see you in here a lot and seem to know some info and history..

Anyone else? Any info, opinions, etc. are welcome! Cheers, and hope to be around more!

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#2 ·
Good pickup.
There are dif versions of what delineates each generation, but for me, you are correct, the unequal reinforcement bars signifies 2nd generation.
You won't have any swiss parts in there unless someone added them later. The first gen had the alum buffer tube--commercial not milspec. I don't know when the plastic buffertube came into being. IIRC yours had the popsicle stick front sight and blue case.

There is a serial number info thread here and we should all copy it. I did but lost it in the various windoze changeovers.

Get the wolff operating/recoil spring for it. I'd go to gatewood supply and get whatever spares you can afford. You can get a swiss oprod and spring for $140 for example. Swiss bolt for the same price. If you have the money, I'd get a swiss lower, swap out the internals and keep the USA stock ones for spares....and don't tell anyone about it as there are rifles out there that will be like yours anyway. I've not shot w/non swiss parts so I don't know but the swiss internals are the best 2 stage trigger I've found.

As far as wear around the ejection port, that means it's a shooter IMO. I'd be hesitant to buy one that has just a little wear on it as to me, that'd mean that he had problems with it. I don't like shorties for a variety of reasons...but I LOVE shooting my 556s. If I were to have a shortie, it'd be a piston.
 
#3 ·
I'd go to gatewood supply and get whatever spares you can afford. You can get a swiss oprod and spring for $140 for example. Swiss bolt for the same price.
Bosley had a brain fart. Which is weird, because he’s super squared away. Swiss 552/553 oprod will not “fit” your gun. It is both shorter and narrower.

Issues I have personally seen are extractor pin failure and recoil spring failure. The extractor pin can be made from the right diameter rod stock, if you can’t find one.

I am not sure if Wolf makes springs for both gas system lengths.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the info guys! So, no Swiss parts.. would that be a deal breaker for others? I was hoping to find a Gen with some Swiss parts, but not the end of the world. For the extractor pin, that could be something I could make.

It could all be BS.. but he did say the previous owner before him sent thousands of rounds down range. Should I be cautious or worried if it's a runner or not with it being a Gen2 no Swiss model? I have no problem throwing parts at it, I'm sure I will anyways. Already have a plan for it. But I don't want to have to buy parts right off the bat. I'd like to go run it! I could snag it as is for 1100.
 
#7 ·
I had an extractor pin walk out on me. Ended up mashing itself and binding the action in a big way. Installing a new one is a bit tricky to boot. Holding that sucker in place against the spring pressure to get the pin in, and then peening the ends properly is not an every-man task. I wasn’t super pleased with how mine turned out, and haven’t actually used that bolt in a gun since.
 
#8 ·
$1,100 isn’t bad, but isn’t amazing either. I reckon it’s in the “fair” spectrum, as far as pricing goes. The extractor pin failure I experienced was also in a gun that had been run pretty hard. Recoil spring issue too. Definitely pick up an oprod+spring spare, as those can be had at Gatewood. What oprod and spring does the gun have? Is the spring flat or round? Is the rod fluted or round?
If you’ve got the flat spring on a round rod, it is my opinion that you don’t have to worry about rod or spring issues.
 
#9 ·
Good info right there! I'll ask him to send me some pictures hopefully.

There are some full length 556s floating around locally, all around the same price.. I have seen some sub 1k.. one even around 700. But.. I've always wanted a pistol.. especially now with Braces these days. :rolleyes:

For pistols here locally, they usually go for more than 1100.. closer to 2k. So the 1100, even being out of state, is very tempting.

But I want to make sure I know what I'm getting first. Gen. Possible future issues (thanks for the oprod and spring recommendations guys), etc
 
#13 ·
Cool. I don’t fret too much about the generation thing. Swiss parts are cool, but not functionally beneficial in a lot of cases. A bolt and carrier? That will make a difference, but other things are minor, in my opinion. One thing to really look out for is the welds. Are they the quality, robot-looking welds, or blobby welds? I have one receiver that totally lacked any welds at all, on the forward portion of the rails. That is certainly something to check for.

A lot of this banter is just that, as far as I am concerned. I like talking about these guns, and can end up splitting hairs as a result. Don’t be discouraged from a purchase because of potential part failures, a lack of spare parts, or lack of factory support. Damn near everything can be fixed. And I wouldn’t fret too much over price either. You’re certainly aware enough to not get screwed, and that’s all that matters.

At the end of the day, I hope you get one and shoot the hell out of it! To miss out on owning and shooting a 55X because of any of the aforementioned factors would be the real bummer.

One pro-tip, IMHO, is to get a Swiss lower or US 551a1 lower, and use the gun with mags that God intended.

Keep the stanag one of course, for practicality’s sake.
 
#14 ·
Really appreciate the feedback and input @CGRBB. I've been dying to pick one up forever now. I just sold my AR yesterday to find my dream gun.. so you're right... Regardless it'll be a great piece.

I'll see if I can check out the his local one in person. I'll check welds and the oprod and spring.
 
#16 ·
The welds are more or less aesthetic, as long as they’re all there. I have never had any structural issues out of my receivers with the “ugly” welds. I have personally had inconsistent results with serial number research. I have been told by Sig that my receiver with prefix XY was manufactured in a timeframe that is not consistent with what is generally held to be the case. “Generations” are of little consequence unless you’re talking about the 556R or very early production 556 series guns. This is all my opinions based on my experience and research. Other, more established members opinions may vary.
 
#18 ·
I no longer fuss about that stuff.

Definitely form your own opinions based on the info you get from your own research, and other members here. I can tell you with certainty that my opinions are my own, and perhaps even quite biased. I am very passionate about these guns, and I do know some stuff. But certainly not everything. And there are more technical experts here and elsewhere, who’s opinions may not be as affected as mine by an obsession with the 55X series.
 
#24 ·
You mean for the Swats?

I'm going to look at this unfired one today. 2014 build. 44B serial number. Perfect condition. LAW folder and brace included , roughly $300 worth of ad-ons. After some negotiations, I think I can pick it up for 1850.
 
#26 ·
Yeah I've always understood the same thing. I look at it as a ~$300 upgrade (if it were a Classic and I wanted to add a Samson or Troy rail) that's already done.

I guess I'm willing to pay Swat prices because I'd just spend the time and money anyways to build it how I want. The swat is already "done".
 
#27 ·
It's mine! And immediately took it out to the desert to break it in. Its everything I expected and more. Ran like a champ with about 100 rounds through it. It's much smoother and controllable than I expected. Was expecting more recoil and stray. Grouping was great with the factory flip up rear and front post. 12" round Steel target set out at 125 yards. Smacked it a handful of times. I just have a tough time sighting through the rear. Looking to pick up an Eotech to slap on it. Miss my old one on my AR (sold to fund this dream gun).

Fitment seems pretty good. Front rail seems to be a little loose/sloppy. I can't remember if it was like that prior to dumpin some rounds or not. Picked up a Lancer mag to try out. Fed no problem. Did a dump with a Pmag with no issues either.

Overall zero issues and absolutely love it.
 
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