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Had a Swiss style birdcage/compensator come lose while cleaning recently. There was no washer or lock-tite that I could tell. It is similar to the A-2 birdcage compensator style where it has between 180 and 270 degrees of openings with a "solid" bottom.

I called the shop I bought it from (very reputable and one talked about on this forum a lot...it was a shop specific custom build) and the main guy there told me to just get some high temp lock-tite and eye ball it by screwing it almost all the way but of course leaving it unscrewed enough so the solid bottom is on the down side.

I haven't done anything with it yet, and as an aside I ordered a Levang Linear Compensator for either that one or another rifle. I will use it on the Sig only if the Levang accommodates the bayonet I have, which I'm not sure if it will because I don't know if the diameter is the same (haven't got it in the mail yet).

Anyway if I decide to re-install the A2 style Swiss flash hider, is the no washer, high temp lock-tite/eyeball method of installation an acceptable way to go?

If I install the Levang on this (or another) rifle, how should I go about that? Do I need a washer? Need to use lock-tite?

The Levang looks a little more difficult to clean for some reason, but I of course don't know that for sure. It's tempting to just screw it on snugly but be able to take it off to clean, unless I'm violating some gunsmith master kung fu commandment in doing so.

Finally, while we're on the subject, are there any significant accuracy issues with either an A2 style flash hider/compensator and/or the Levang one? Does one negatively effect a projectile more or less than the other?

Thanks for any feedback.
 

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i put the levang on my sig but havent got to fire it yet..not many neg. reviews, one guy did say it dropped his zero a few inches, just rezero.

i bought the washer recommnended at midwayusa but could have used my oringal washer just as easy, ended up putting it on w/out the washer

got a strap wrench from lowes, no lock tight, its tight enough i can't unscrew it w/ my hand.

you dont want it hand tight..if you start shooting it could work lose and cause a richochet..and maybe send your levang down range if you didnt catch it in time, not sure how fast it will unscrew if it even will,

cleaning doesnt look that hard..those other holes only go in maybe 1/2 or so, pipe cleaners should work fine if it even needs cleaned at all
 

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malakas said:
I will use it on the Sig only if the Levang accommodates the bayonet I have, which I'm not sure if it will because I don't know if the diameter is the same (haven't got it in the mail yet).
I had to ream out my bayonet to be able to get it to work with the Levang. Took some time with the dremel but it fits great now.
 

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malakas said:
Had a Swiss style birdcage/compensator come lose while cleaning recently. There was no washer or lock-tite that I could tell. It is similar to the A-2 birdcage compensator style where it has between 180 and 270 degrees of openings with a "solid" bottom.

I called the shop I bought it from (very reputable and one talked about on this forum a lot...it was a shop specific custom build) and the main guy there told me to just get some high temp lock-tite and eye ball it by screwing it almost all the way but of course leaving it unscrewed enough so the solid bottom is on the down side.
...not very good advice...and possibly dangerous...a little common sense will go a long way here...Google washers...crush washers/compression washers...peel washers...lock washers...and screw treads...and understand the reason and need to use them...

malakas said:
Anyway if I decide to re-install the A2 style Swiss flash hider, is the no washer, high temp lock-tite/eyeball method of installation an acceptable way to go
...NO !

...if you "need to align" the flash suppressor...you should use a washer that will compress...such as a crush washer ( a crush washer can only be used one time BTW)..after you allgn the suppressor...do not back it off...if you do...you need to use a "new" crush washer... or use a compression washer...a compression washer can be used more than once...

...these types of washers provide a pre-load......the washer acts as an opposing force to lock the tread engagement area...you should never depend on a treadlocker such as loctite for securing a flash suppressor...as a general rule...flash hiders should be torgued down to between 15 and 20 foot pounds...especially on weapons that have relatively corse barrel treads...such a 1 X 28 TPI...with a RH tread...screwed onto a weapon having a barrel with a "right hand" barrel twist.....

...to better understand why "washers" are used in this type of application...Google "washers"...the short of it is they provide a shoulder that evenly distributes an opposing force...and a a load...to "help" keep the treads locked...and in this case...allowing the flash hider to be indexed due to the "ability" of the "crush washer" or "compression washer" to slightly" compress...

malakas said:
If I install the Levang on this (or another) rifle, how should I go about that? Do I need a washer? Need to use lock-tite?
...i would use the correct washer...no loctite...

...right hand barrel twist + flash suppressor treaded 1 X28 TPI RH + relatively course treads = working loose...especially as you increase the "mass" of the suppressor...
 

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Whoops, shows you how much I know, thanks ullie, I am ordering some crush washers from Midway ASAP..... :idea:
 

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SkyPup said:
I am ordering some crush washers from Midway ASAP
...you might consider using a conical compression washer such as a belleville washer...these will more effectively provide the necessary preload considering the weight (mass) of the Levang Linear Compensator...a crush washer...although providing some preload...is used primarily to index a suppressor / compensator...

... http://www.ghxinc.com/BSFasteners.htm

... http://www.wclco.com/Spring_Washers/Descriptions.php

...in the products dropdown click on the appropiate catagories...lot's of info there...ie spring washers...belleville disc springs etc....

...on the conical compression washers such as the belleville...the inner ring's edge is higher in relief than the outer ring's edge...when installing...the outer ring faces the barrel shoulder and the inner ring faces out towards the compensator... compressing this "spring type washer" establishes the preload condition...you do not want to overtorgue it though...ie...compleatly flatten out the washer...you can use two washers..one stacked over the other to increase the preload force...
 

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flash hider help

shim washers or peel type maybe better ... on mine a 4 slot smooth front phantom indexed with flats on the side left/right -it looks very nice /swiss like ...
 
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